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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred names. But, tucked prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has left the family utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks a family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small shop earning such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.